Growing tomatoes in open ground: the secrets of a rich harvest. Farmer's advice: how to easily and when to plant tomato seedlings in open ground? Proper planting of tomatoes in open ground

In this article we will talk about how to properly plant tomatoes in open ground, discuss the timing of planting different varieties, and also find out whether the planting method can affect the yield.

When warm spring days arrive, many gardeners begin to prepare their seedlings for planting in the ground. This is a very responsible matter that requires patience and effort. In order to get a good harvest of tomatoes in the future, you need to select seeds and plant them for seedlings. Take care of it, dive, and only then plant it in the beds. Moreover, you cannot make mistakes when planting, otherwise you may not get a big harvest of tomatoes.

When, at what time, at what temperature in the spring should I plant seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground?

All plants are influenced by lunar phases. Because of this, experienced gardeners monitor them and read the recommendations of the lunar calendar. This process allows you to grow vegetables and fruits that will not later be affected by diseases and will give a good result when harvested.

This calendar is easy to use. It indicates on what day this or that work can be carried out. Here you can find out when to plant tomatoes and when not to.

If you are planting tomato seedlings in a heated greenhouse, then begin work at the end of April. Tomatoes should be planted in open areas when there are no longer frosts on the soil. Favorable time is the end of May, the first part of June.

• in March: from 1 to 3; from 13 to 15; from 17 to 23; from 26 to 29
• in April: from 5 to 7; from 10 to 12; from 17 to 18; from 22 to 24
• in May: on any days except full moon, new moon

It is better to plant in open ground:

• in June: from 3 to 5; from 10 to 12; 30th

It's great if you have a greenhouse. Thanks to it, you can get a large harvest of tomatoes at the beginning of summer. Especially when the greenhouse is heated. After all, fruit trees are planted in it already in April. And on ordinary days - in the second half of the last month of spring.

When planting plants, pay attention to the temperature conditions of the ground and air. The earth should warm up to 13-16°C, and the air should not be less than 21°C.

It should be noted that climatic conditions are different in different regions, so there can be no talk of uniform dates. In some places you can safely plant tomatoes in open areas at the end of May, but in others only in June.

At what distance between bushes should I plant tall and short tomatoes?

It’s a pity when the owner has grown the seedlings to perfection, but due to incorrect technology for planting tomatoes, the yield is not what it could be. Here it is important to choose the right scheme for planting fruit trees and carefully observe the distances between tomato bushes.

It also doesn’t hurt to take into account all the above requirements for different varieties of tomatoes. Because there are tall crops that require greater distance between rows and neighboring plants. For low growing bushes tomatoes a gap of 25-30 centimeters is enough from each other. Tall people will need about 40 centimeters of distance and it is advisable not to let them run on the ground, but to tie them up. Also make sure that they do not intertwine with each other.

With a combined planting scheme, place tall bushes in the middle and low-growing bushes at the edges of the bed. This way you will provide convenient access to all tomatoes, it will be easier for you to water them and process them in the future.

IMPORTANT: If you plant tomatoes too close to each other, they will suffer from various diseases and infect neighboring bushes. The air between plants must pass well so that moisture does not accumulate.

Square-cluster method of planting tomatoes: diagram

This type of planting of tomato seedlings is suitable for tall plants, where it will be important to cultivate row spacing. More precisely, keep the soil loose and remove weeds.

In this situation, each tomato bush is planted at the vertices of the corner of the square, due to which the number of seedlings in each row decreases. In this case, they do not save on the planting area, but if savings are necessary, then two or three bushes are planted as if in a nest right next to each other.

It’s good that using this scheme you can reduce the time for processing tomatoes by 15 working days and reduce labor by half. Thanks to the square planting pattern, fruit yield increases, because processing row spacing using mechanized means is not particularly difficult. Tomatoes suffer less from fungal diseases. After all, they are located at a decent distance from each other.

Tape method of planting tomatoes: diagram

If you need to plant a lot of tomatoes on one site, then it is better to choose the strip-nesting method of placing bushes. The advantage of this scheme is that nearby tomatoes are more resistant to aggressive weather factors.

With this method, the soil is cut into special furrows, the distance between which is 130 centimeters. Bushes are planted on opposite sides of such furrows. When plants begin to grow, they have 0.3 square meters for this. With this planting, it is easy to carry out mechanized processing of plants and destruction of weeds.

Checkerboard method of planting tomatoes: diagram

The checkerboard method is ideal for low varieties of tomatoes. Such seedlings should be planted several stems per hole. Plant plants in two rows. Leave a distance between them of 55 centimeters or a little more. If the owner decides to plant the bushes in one stem, then it is better to plant the plants closer to each other. It is enough to leave a distance between rows of 35 centimeters.

Tall varieties with this scheme are planted at a distance of 45 centimeters between plants and 65 centimeters between rows.

The bushes are planted in a checkerboard pattern in strictly rows, as in the diagram in the image below. Plants in the second row are planted as if in squares on a chessboard. Just be sure to maintain row spacing to make it convenient to water and process growing tomatoes.

If you are planning a mechanical method of processing bushes, then make rows (passage between tapes) of 1.5 meters, otherwise one meter is enough.

Chinese way of planting tomatoes: technology

The method used gives good yield. To grow good tomatoes, you need to ensure high-quality sowing; for this, observe the following features:

• Sow when the Moon is waning in the sign of Scorpio. Be sure to treat the seeds with solutions to protect them from various diseases.
• Carry out the pick in a month at the same phase of the Moon.

Seed treatment details

• First of all, soak them in a damp rag, then place them in an extract of ash substances. The process should take about three hours. Place them again in a humid environment with the manganese solution for 15 minutes.
• Now leave them for half a day in a solution with Epin. Next, harden for 24 hours in a bag on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
• Only after all the above procedures are your seeds ready for sowing in pots with soil mixture. Before sowing, the soil should be watered with a hot solution of a mixture of water and manganese.
• To create an ideal environment for germination, the pot is covered with polyethylene, then placed in a dark place near heat sources in the room.
• After five days, the polyethylene is removed and the pots are moved closer to light sources. The plants should already appear above the surface of the earth.
• After a month, a pick is made on the waning moon. You will need to transplant the seedlings into other glasses, moisten them a little, cover them again with polyethylene and place them in a dark, warm place for three days.
• Then remove the polyethylene and transfer the glasses to the windowsill. You cannot use soil from the garden with humus - the tomatoes will not develop as expected. For seedlings, use soil from an amateur gardener's store.
• When warm spring arrives, seedlings are planted in open areas of soil. Such seedlings are very stable, and even in rainy weather they will not be affected by late blight.

IMPORTANT: After planting tomatoes in the ground, after some time, when they take root, you should remove the stepsons and arrange the plants (tie them up, point the stems up so that they do not grow on the ground).

If you are planting tall varieties, then it is advisable to plant two stems in one hole. This way they won't break off. Even after rooting, get rid of the clusters of leaves, leaving only the first 6-7. Otherwise, the fruits will take a long time to ripen and you won’t see large tomatoes.

Planting tomato seedlings - two in one hole: technology

As mentioned above, two seedlings in one hole do not break off, make the plant lush, and do not interfere with each other at all. In order for the seedlings to become well established in this way, they should be planted in prepared soil.

Add 100 g of ash, 10 g of urea, 150 g of mullein, a little sawdust, 20 g of superphosphate to each hole. Then take two stems, bend them slightly and cover them with soil almost up to the top clusters of leaves, so the root system of the tomatoes will be strong. Water the plants only at the roots, try not to spray on the leaves. Plant parsley or Chernobyvtsy flowers next to the bushes, this way you will protect the seedlings from cabbage weed (mole cricket) and other pests.

How to properly transplant tomato seedlings into a hole: technology

If you are not an expert in vegetable growing, then don’t worry. Planting seedlings will not be difficult after these tips. In one hour before the process starts water the seedlings so that the roots do not break off when you transfer it to the beds. Also try to pull out the roots of the stems along with the soil, and not tear the root system.

Plant Can carefully place in the hole, on its side, so the root will be stronger. It is advisable that the seedlings be buried deeper in the ground, then in the heat the bushes will not fall to the ground until the root system is strengthened.

IN pour a little humus into the hole, compact the soil so that the plant stands and does not fall after replanting. Watering is initially carried out at the root of the plant. When the tomato bush grows, install pegs and tie the stems so that they do not spread along the ground.

If it's already hot outside and the sun is baking in earnest, then planting seedlings spend in the evening, V cloudy weather, Can plant tomatoes at any time of the day.

Which planting method is best to use for a greenhouse and open ground: tips

Previously, various types of planting tomatoes have already been considered, both for greenhouses and open ground, taking into account the height of the plants. Therefore, the gardener himself must choose the necessary method, or rather the scheme for planting tomatoes, depending on the conditions, irrigation systems, and size of the area.

The main thing is that each plant is provided with the necessary amount of sun, moisture and air circulates between the stems, so that bacteria and harmful microorganisms that lead to tomato diseases do not accumulate.

Medium-sized tomatoes are usually planted at a distance of 55 centimeters from each other. Low-growing tomatoes are planted at a distance of 45 centimeters from each other. Also leave a convenient passage between plants for watering and processing tomatoes.

How to feed tomatoes in the hole during and for the first time after planting in a greenhouse or open ground?

Immediately after planting tomatoes, compost should be added to the hole to strengthen the roots; urea is used to grow the bushes. It is necessary to water the plants with a solution containing urea a week after planting the seedlings; water the tomatoes a second time with this mixture (10 liters of water - 25 g of urea) two weeks later.

If the tomatoes receive an overdose of compost, then the stem and leaves will be strong and dark green. The flowers will fall off.

During the development period, copper sulfate and other drugs.

When to water tomatoes after planting them in open ground or a greenhouse for the first time?

Immediately after planting the seedlings, they should not be filled with water. One watering every few days is enough; between waterings the soil must be irrigated. The soil should not be allowed to dry out; it is advisable to moisten it regularly. For details about watering, see the article.

How long does it take for tomatoes to take root after planting?

In order for the root system to strengthen and the tomatoes to get used to open ground, it takes at least about a week. Only after this period should you water the tomatoes. And after two weeks it is necessary to carry out hilling to the entire height of the stem - but no more than 10 centimeters.

What to do with tomatoes in open ground in case of frost?

Unfortunately, even in the last month of spring there are frosts. This negatively affects the growth of tomato seedlings and can even cause their death. To prevent this from happening, you should first cover the beds with polyethylene before frost. To do this, you need to study weather forecasts online.

Also, so that the tomatoes do not bake from the heat, they are covered with a special net, which slightly shades them from direct sunlight.

Why tomatoes die after planting in the ground: reasons

Like all living things, tomatoes tend to get sick. The development of various diseases can be influenced by environmental factors.

Fungal diseases can spoil not only the foliage, but also the root system of the tomato. The fungus is caused by:

• Late blight. Appears on the foliage as dark brown spots. It penetrates the plant through air masses and soil. If you treat the seeds with potassium permanganate, you will significantly reduce the risk of all sorts of diseases.
• Disease " black legs» affects the tomato stem itself. Then it is destroyed. To prevent the soil from becoming a pathogen, treat it with copper sulfate even before planting seedlings.
• Leaf spot (white). With this disease, the stem acquires a brown tint. Again, treating the soil with potassium permanganate saves you from disease.
• The roots of the plant are affected fusarium wilt, if you do not disinfect the soil and tomato seeds when planting them.

If you do not follow all the subtleties of growing tomatoes, then the plants are affected by viral infections (mosaic, aspermia, etc.). It is very difficult to treat such diseases, but they can be prevented. It is enough to follow all the rules for planting tomatoes and processing seeds and plants.

Video: How to revive and cure tomatoes after planting in the ground if they have turned yellow, white, blue or grow poorly: tips, recommendations

In addition to all the listed ailments, tomatoes also suffer from non-infectious diseases. They arise due to a lack of minerals or an oversaturation with them. In such situations, it is necessary to supplement the crop with magnesium, potassium, or vice versa - to remove components (nitrogen-containing components) from the diet, which prevent a normal harvest.

Seeds of tomato varieties intended for cultivation in open ground are sown directly into nutrient pots, i.e. without picking. This is explained by the fact that seeds of open ground varieties and folk selection that are not sufficiently resistant to viral diseases, especially the tobacco mosaic virus, are usually used for sowing. When transplanting into pots, seedlings often break off small roots and infection can penetrate into the wounds of healthy plants. In addition, low-growing varieties do not outgrow and remain compact until the end of planting in a permanent place, i.e. low (15-18 cm).

kiza

Sowing of seeds is carried out from March 1 to March 25 in cups or pots measuring 10x10 cm. They are filled with soil mixture and watered with a warm (35 -40 ° C) solution: 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water. Then in each cup, in the center, make two holes 1 cm deep, put 1 seed in each and cover with soil mixture. Such sowing without picking is carried out only for low-growing varieties for open ground, in order to protect the seedlings from viral diseases.

The sown pots are placed in a box, placed in a warm (22 - 25 ° C) bright place and carefully monitor the emergence of seedlings, which should appear in 6 - 7 days. As soon as the seedlings appear, the pots are moved one by one to a bright sunny windowsill with a temperature of 14-16°C during the day and 12-14°C at night. When lowering the temperature (opening the vents and window frames), it is necessary to ensure that the seedlings are not standing in a draft. This cool daytime regime will prevent the seedlings from stretching and will help better root development. Then the temperature is gradually raised during the day to 18 -22°C, and at night to 15 - 17°C. 5-6 days after germination, the weaker plant is removed from the pot, and the stronger one is left.

Brian Barth

Care looking after seedlings is an extremely important moment. Before planting in the garden, seedlings grow for 55 - 60 days. Water moderately with water, at the beginning of growth, once a week, 0.5 cups per plant. When 3 - 5 true leaves are formed, water one glass per plant.

Every 10 - 12 days the seedlings are fed. The first time - 20 days after germination with a solution of nitrophoska (1 tablespoon diluted in 10 liters of water), spending 0.5 cups per 2 plants. The second time is fed 10 days after the first feeding. 2 tablespoons of organic-mineral fertilizer are diluted in 10 liters of water, using 1 glass of solution per plant. The third feeding (last) is carried out a week before planting seedlings in open ground. 2 tablespoons of superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water (superphosphate is infused in warm water three days before feeding), everything is mixed well and the seedlings are watered.

It is necessary to constantly harden off the seedlings at low temperatures. Starting in April, seedlings can be taken out onto a balcony, veranda or left near open window frames at an air temperature of at least 10°C. The first hardening is carried out in the shade for three days, since it is necessary to gradually accustom the plant to full light in the open air. If the seedlings are taken out in sunny weather on the first day, burns may occur from direct exposure to sunlight. In the future, the seedlings are not shaded.

Transshipment of tomato seedlings. © Steve Albert

When hardening seedlings, make sure that the soil in the pots is moist and not dry, otherwise the leaves may wilt and turn yellow.

By the time of planting in open ground beds, the plants should be strong, not elongated, leafy (with 7-10 leaves).

Planting seedlings in a permanent place

In open ground, a sunny place, protected from cold winds, is allocated for planting tomatoes. Low, damp areas with close groundwater are unsuitable for tomatoes, which create unfavorable conditions for the root system of plants. The best predecessors for tomatoes are legumes, root vegetables, and green vegetables.

To avoid late blight infection, tomatoes should not be planted after potatoes and tomatoes.

Preferred soils are loamy with the addition of organic and mineral fertilizers.

Andrew

The beds for tomatoes are prepared 5-6 days before planting. Before digging up the soil, it must be treated with a hot (70 - 80°C) solution of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride. Dilute 1 tablespoon of one or the other in 10 liters of water. Solution consumption is up to 1 - 1.5 liters per 1 m².

After this, organic and mineral fertilizers are poured onto clay and loamy soils - 3 - 4 kg of manure humus, peat and old sawdust, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate or 1 glass of wood ash per 1 m². Then the bed is dug up to a depth of 25 - 30 cm, leveled, and watered with warm water (40 -50 ° C). Make holes and water them with an antibacterial drug before planting the seedlings.

The seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the first and second decades of May. Planting is done in cloudy weather in the morning, in sunny weather in the afternoon. At the time of planting, the seedlings must be fresh; even slight wilting of the plants retards their growth, leads to partial fall of the very first flowers and loss of the early harvest.

Carla

The seedlings are planted vertically, only the soil pot is deepened into the soil. The stem remains uncovered by soil, and only after 15 days the plants are hilled to a stem height of up to 12 cm.

Seedlings are planted in 2 rows. For medium-sized varieties (60 - 70 cm), the row spacing should be 50 cm, and the distance in the rows between plants should be 40 - 45 cm. For low-growing (standard) varieties, the row spacing should be 40 -50 cm wide, and the distance in the row between plants should be 40 cm Pegs with a height of 50 cm for short-growing plants and 80 cm for medium-sized plants are immediately placed, but the greatest effect is achieved when the plant is tied to arches and to a stretched wire using synthetic twine to a height of 1 - 1.2 m. As a result, the plant is better illuminated, ventilated and less sick. Until the plants take root, they are not watered for 10 days after planting. After planting, if light frosts are expected, tomato plants need additional shelter, especially at night. After planting the seedlings, the bed is covered with a transparent film until the onset of warm weather (until June 5 - 10), then the film is not removed, but holes with a diameter of 10 - 12 cm are made on it throughout the film and left for the whole summer. As a result, an early harvest is obtained and the plants are freed from late blight infection.

If necessary, seedlings can be tied up. © Andrew

Formation of tomato plants

Plants are shaped so that they can produce 5 - 6 fruit clusters. When the plants are formed into one stem, all the side shoots (stepchildren) that form in the axil of each leaf are removed from the main stem, and 5 to 6 fruit clusters are left on the main shoot. A pinch is made above the last (upper) flower brush, leaving 2 - 3 leaves on it.

With a two-stem form, a stepson is left growing under the first flower raceme. In this case, 4 fruit clusters are left on the main stem and the top is pinched, leaving 3 leaves, and 3 fruit clusters are left on the stepson and also pinched, leaving 2 - 3 leaves.

Carry out stepsoning in a timely manner. © Andrew

When forming a three-stem form, 2-3 fruit clusters are left on the main stem. On the two lower stepsons, 2 fruit clusters are left and pinched so that there are 2 - 3 leaves above the upper fruit clusters.

In pinched and pinched plants, nutrients are used to form and fill the fruits, which increases their size and ripening occurs earlier. On a formed bush, in addition to five or six fruit clusters, there should be at least 30 - 35 leaves.

First root feeding done 3 weeks after planting: dilute 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water, consumption - 0.5 liters of solution for each plant. At the beginning of the blooming of the second flower brush, second root feeding : dilute 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride in 10 liters of water, or take 1 tablespoon of organo-mineral fertilizer per 10 liters of water, consumption - 1 liter of solution per plant.

Third root feeding done during the blooming of the third flower cluster: 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer and nitrophoska is diluted in 10 liters of water, consumption - 5 liters per 1 m2.

Fourth feeding carried out 12 days after the third: dilute 1 tablespoon of superphosphate in 10 liters of water (consumption - 10 liters per 1 m²) or use universal liquid fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), consumption - 5 liters of solution per 1 m².

Sometimes the composition of the feeding depends not only on the phase of plant development, but also on the weather: in cloudy weather, increase the dose of potassium sulfate to 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water, and in sunny weather - a dose of urea 2 tablespoons per the same amount of water, while consuming 5 liters of solution per 1 m2.

Plants with weak foliage and stunted growth need to be foliar feeding, that is, spray the leaves with the following solution: dilute 1 tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water.

The best temperature for normal growth and fruiting of tomatoes is 20 - 25 ° C at night.

Water the plants abundantly, in sunny weather after 6 days, in cloudy weather after 7-8 days at the rate of 10 -20 liters per 1 m², depending on the air temperature. After watering, the bed is sprinkled with sifted peat or compost with a layer of 1 - 2 cm. In this case, a crust does not form on top, moisture is retained in the soil and evaporation does not occur, which is harmful to the plant, especially in the flowering phase. Excess moisture with a lack of heat leads to the death of the root system.

Gina

In open ground, it is better to water in the afternoon to avoid unnecessary loss of water through evaporation.

You can often notice flowers falling off. This is a sign of a lack of moisture or a drop in temperature. Plants need to be sprayed with boron solution (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water), spending 1 liter per 1 m².

The timing of watering can also be determined by the appearance of the plants - the change in color of the leaves to dark green and their wilting on hot days. In such cases, the plants are watered in 2-3 doses over a short period of time to gradually moisten the soil.

To ensure that fertilizers applied with irrigation penetrate deeper, the soil between the rows is pierced with a fork to the full depth of the horns. If the soil on the site is wet and there is a lot of precipitation, watering is not carried out (fertilizers are applied in dry form).

It is especially useful to use fertilizers such as “Breadwinner”, “Fertility”, “Bogatyr”, “Signor Tomato” (1 teaspoon per plant).

bonnieplants

July and August are the time for ripening and harvesting. The main thing in caring for tomatoes is to speed up the ripening of the set fruits and protect them from rotting. It is necessary to continue to remove newly appearing stepsons, excess leaves, pinch the tops of all fruit-bearing bushes, and remove flower clusters on which the fruits no longer have time to form. In low-growing varieties, the fruit clusters should be turned toward the sun. It is also a good idea during this period (from August 15), in addition to all the main fertilizing, to additionally feed the tomatoes with the following solution: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate or 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska, using 0.5 liters of solution each per plant.

The period from fruit set to reddening of early ripening varieties lasts 40 - 50 days. If overripe fruits are left on the plants, the total yield is reduced, and vice versa, if unripe (brown) fruits are regularly collected, the total yield increases significantly. Red fruits can be stored at a temperature of 5 - 10 ° C for 40 - 50 days, the air humidity should be at least 80%.

gardenfrisk

It is most advisable to remove all formed fruits from the bushes when they are brown, i.e. beginning to turn white, and set them aside for maturation. This simple technique speeds up the filling of the remaining green fruits on the bush. Before laying for ripening, the fruits must be warmed to protect them from blackening. This is done like this: first, the tomatoes are dipped in hot water (60 - 65°C) for 2 minutes, then in cold water, then wiped with a soft cloth, then laid. To speed up the ripening process, it is carried out indoors at a temperature of 18 -20°C. The fruits are placed in small boxes in 2 - 3 layers, removing the pedicels. Add some red tomatoes to the boxes. They accelerate the ripening process of green fruits by releasing ethylene gas.

In the light, ripening tomatoes acquire a more intense color than in the dark. Place drawers on top of cabinets and walls.

Materials used:

• Encyclopedia of gardening and gardening- O. A. Ganichkina, A. V. Ganichkin

Senor Tomato is a positive hero of culinary creations, in contrast to the character of the famous cartoon. To enjoy the taste of a homemade vegetable, it is enough to know the characteristics of the crop variety and a few rules for growing tomatoes.

Tomato, or tomato, is an annual or perennial plant of the Solanaceae family. Until the 18th century, they were not eaten, considering tomato fruits to be poisonous. Tomatoes are rich in fiber, glucose, fructose and other elements. Tomatoes improve mood due to the presence of the substance tyramine, which is converted into serotonin in the body. Eating tomatoes improves immunity, improves digestion, and lowers blood cholesterol levels. Types and varieties of tomatoes: characteristics and classification Depending on the height of the plant and the period of fruit ripening, there are three main varieties of tomatoes: determinant, semi-determinants, indeterminate. Determinate varieties Short. The height of the bush is from 25 to 150 cm. The tomato bush forms from 3 to 5 clusters with inflorescences, growth stops with the last cluster. The first brush is formed after 4-5 sheets. The rest grow after 1-2 leaves. Early ripening - from 85 to 110 days from germination to the first harvest. Planted in open ground. Planted at a distance of: 40-60 cm between bushes, 60-70 cm between beds. Depending on the variety and size of the bushes, denser planting is possible. The most popular varieties: Dubok, Yamal, Alaska, Sultan, Rocket, Agata, etc. Semi-determinate varieties Tall. The height of the bush is from 150 to 160 cm. May limit growth after 3 to 4 clusters have formed. Mid-season - from 85 to 110 days from germination to the first harvest. Planted in film, winter greenhouses. It is grown in open ground in the southern regions. Popular varieties: Chirchik, Partner Semko, Magnus, Chigan. Indeterminate Grow as a vine while they can. Harvest from 40 to 50 clusters. Form the plant into one stem. Late - ripening over 115 days from germination to the first harvest. Grown in greenhouses. Planted at a distance of: 50-60 cm between bushes, 80-90 cm between rows. Such a large distance is determined by the need to tie tall bushes to the supports. Popular varieties: Nada, Noemi, Star Gold, Christina Plum, Cherokee. Due to the fact that indeterminate varieties produce crops only in warm climates and ripen later than determinate varieties, it is not advisable to plant them in open ground. Determinatives are divided into: Standard varieties. They are short in stature and have a strong stem. Doesn't need shaping. Plant staking is required. Determinant. They need shaping and pinching, i.e. removing excess shoots. Form into two stems. Superdeterminant. Low growing varieties. They do not require stepsoning, because the harvest is tied on the stepsons. Height no more than 0.8 m. Tomato varieties for open ground Early varieties of tomatoes for open ground are all representatives of the determinant group. The advantage of this group of tomatoes is the full yield and ease of care. The most famous low-growing tomatoes for open ground are: Mystery. Extra early variety. Fruit ripening on the 85th day after sowing the seeds. The fruits are round, dense, weighing up to 150 g. Plant growth reaches 40 cm. The bush must be pinched, otherwise the tomatoes will be small. Anastasia. Fruit ripening is 100-105 days after sowing. The shape of the fruit is elongated, weight from 100 to 150 g. The bush can reach up to 130 cm in height. Alpha. Superdeterminate variety. Ripening period is from 85 to 95 days. The fruits are round in shape, red, weight up to 120 g. Used in salads. Aphrodite F1. Ultra early variety. Fruiting occurs 75 days after sowing. The height of the bush is up to 50 cm. The fruits are fleshy, elongated, weight up to 140 g. Valentina. Ripening up to 98 days after sowing. The height of the bush is up to 70 cm. This species is resistant to cracking. Standard varieties are the most unpretentious type of determinate low-growing varieties for open ground. Many varieties have proven themselves to be cold-resistant. The best varieties of standard tomatoes for growing in open ground are distinguished: Rose of Wind. Ripening period is up to 3 months. Cold resistant. The height of the bush is no more than 50 cm. Fruits weighing up to 130 g. Variety Polar. Ripening period is from 94 to 108 days. Height up to 30 cm. Fruit weight up to 150 g. Betta. Ripens within 2.5 months. Bushes up to 50 cm high. Fruit weight up to 50 g. Oak. Ripening period is from 100 to 110 days. Bush height up to 60 cm. Fruit weight from 90 to 130 g. Yamal. Ripening time is up to 83 days after germination. Bush height is from 25 to 30 cm. Fruit weight is from 90 to 110 g. Stages of growing tomatoes in open ground There are a number of simple rules that will help avoid loss of yield and plant diseases. It is necessary to adhere to these rules even at the stage of autumn soil preparation for planting. Autumn soil preparation Features of making good soil for growing tomatoes: Start preparing the soil in the fall, before frost. Assessment of predecessors in the garden. Recommended crops that could grow in the soil provided for planting tomatoes: cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, cucumbers, onions, parsley, carrots. During their growth, these plants introduce substances into the soil that have a beneficial effect on tomato growth. Do not grow tomatoes where potatoes, eggplants, and peppers used to grow in order to avoid infection with diseases common to these crops. Tomatoes are planted after harvesting potatoes after 2-3 years. Checking soil acidity. A good soil for tomatoes is soil with a neutral acidity of 6.5-7.0 pH. Tomatoes are also ready to cope with slightly acidic soil. They do not tolerate acidic or alkaline soil. Increased acidity leads to the development of pathogenic bacteria and stops the action of beneficial microorganisms introduced with fertilizers. To neutralize the acidity of the soil, it is worth adding lime to the soil at the rate of 0.5-0.9 kg of lime per 1 m 2. Growing tomatoes in soil in which tomatoes have already grown leads to gradual oxidation of the soil, so you can plant tomatoes after 3 years. To avoid an excess of calcium, which increases the alkalinity of the soil, it is better to apply lime under previous crops. To acidify alkaline soil, you can use fertilizers containing ammonia, in addition to calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. The priority will be the soil where fertilizers (compost, ash, lime) were previously applied. After choosing a place for planting tomatoes, dig up the soil to a depth of 22 to 25 cm. The soil is not leveled to accumulate moisture. Apply organic fertilizers if the soil has not been fertilized previously. For fertilizer, you can use humus or compost. Fertilizers are planted to a depth of 25 cm. This will serve as the main supply of nutrients for the root system of tomatoes. When applying fertilizers, do not mix ash with manure or ammonium sulfate to avoid nitrogen loss. Mixing ash with superphosphate and lime reduces the availability of phosphorus. Selection of tomato seeds for open ground To select a tomato variety, important factors are determined: Cultivation method: non-seedling or seedling. It is possible to grow tomatoes using the seedless method only in the southern regions, due to the long growing season. Sow in open soil heated to 20 °C. Growing area. When choosing seeds, you should pay attention to the fact that the tomatoes should be intended for planting in open ground. This is indicated on the packaging. Tomato ripening time. Determine the amount of harvest you would like to receive. Despite their early maturity, some early-ripening tomato varieties have low yields. The purpose of growing crops. This can be preparations for the winter, canning, fresh consumption in salads, long-term storage of fresh vegetables, etc. Seed producers often specify the purpose of the tomato variety. Amount of time to care for tomatoes. The range of variety selection will narrow if there is no time for pinching, tying and shaping the bush. Disease prevention. Knowledge of the basic parameters of the soil, climate, and common problems in the region will help you choose a sustainable type of tomato. Shape, color, size of fruits. There are many beautiful and attractive varieties that you will want to try to grow on your property when you see them. Growing seedlings for planting tomatoes in open ground If you plan to grow seedlings at home, determine the duration of the growing season. To this figure is added the period for seed germination and plant adaptation. Knowing the desired harvest date, the start date for seed preparation is calculated. Seed preparation. There are many tips for preparing seeds, including heating and treating the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate, epin, zircon, etc. The important point in this matter is caution. There is an opinion that if the seed itself could not sprout at home, then the viability of such a plant is in question. Preparing containers for seedlings. These could be cups or cassettes that need to be disinfected. Containers for seedlings must have drainage holes for air circulation to avoid the formation of rot. The depth of the containers is chosen to be at least 10 cm. Substrate preparation. Tomato seedlings are not picky about the quality of the substrate; you can simply buy peat soil or make it yourself. The substrate is thoroughly steamed and moistened. The seeds are buried 1 cm into the soil. After sowing, the containers are covered with film. Preparing the site for installing cassettes with seedlings. It should be a bright, warm place. The temperature in the room or greenhouse is maintained at 23°C until the first shoots appear. Watering is carried out only with a sprayer. Soil moisture is checked by hand. After all seedlings have germinated, the film is removed. Do this after lunch to avoid evaporation of moisture. Provide additional lighting. Lighting fixtures should not be located too close to the seedlings. At least 50 cm away. Hardening off seedlings. After removing the film, the temperature is adjusted: to +10°C at night, to + 15°C during the day. This is done throughout the entire period before planting the seedlings in open ground. Selection of purchased tomato seedlings for growing in open ground Basic rules for choosing seedlings for growing in open ground: The height of the plant should be no more than 20 cm. Good seedlings for growing low-growing varieties have from 6 to 8 leaves, for growing tall varieties - from 11 to 12 leaves. Preference is given to picked seedlings. Such seedlings have a well-developed root system. The roots are located on the periphery, and not with the stem down. Seedlings are planted in open ground hardened. The leaves of such seedlings are bright green. The age of seedlings for early tomato varieties is no more than 60 days, for late varieties - no more than 80 days. The thickness of the seedling stem is usually slightly less than a pencil. Thicker stems indicate that the plant is “over-fed” with nitrogen fertilizers. The purchase of seedlings is made as close as possible to the time of planting, it is recommended two hours before planting in open ground, no more. The seedlings will wither and may not be accepted. Spring soil preparation In the spring, a week before the planned planting of seedlings, the soil is prepared. Break up all clods of earth and level the soil to prevent the evaporation of moisture that has accumulated over the winter and spring. During this time, the soil will warm up and weeds will begin to appear, which can be easily removed with a rake. Fertilizers are applied. Mineral fertilizers are applied during digging. This can be 20 g of potassium chloride and 80 g of superphosphate per 1 m2. Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied during digging, because they are necessary for plants after adaptation and the beginning of growth. Before planting, make holes with the required depth of up to 15 cm. The distances between holes and rows depend on the variety of tomatoes. Planting tomato seedlings in open ground Seedlings are planted when frost has passed, and above-zero temperatures will remain for a week. For many areas this is the first third of June, for some it is the beginning of May. The area for planting tomatoes in open ground should be sunny and ventilated. These can be southern, southwestern, southeastern areas. Tomato seedlings are planted in the ground after the first cluster of flowers appears. The seedlings should have 6 to 8 leaves at this time. Typically, seedlings are between 50 and 60 days old, depending on the type of tomato. For seedlings that have become very elongated at the time of planting, a couple of lower leaves are cut off. After such pruning, the seedlings are planted deep into the soil, and the adventitious roots on the lower part of the seedlings provide the plant with additional nutrition. The prepared wells are filled with water at the rate of up to 1 liter per well. Allow the water to soak into the soil. Seedlings with a developed root system are placed in holes strictly vertically and buried down to the cotyledon leaves. Elongated seedlings are placed obliquely and buried to half the stem. The holes with seedlings are watered again and sprinkled with dry soil. Do not plant seedlings where plants grow, the proximity of which can harm tomatoes: potatoes, zucchini, fennel. The growth of tomatoes will be favorably affected by proximity to basil, celery, onions, and bird cherry. Tomato care Periodically remove the lower leaves of the tomatoes, which can lead to air stagnation in the lower part of the hole. Remove no more than three leaves at a time. After 24 hours, the plant needs to be watered. The frequency of removal is at least once a week. They loosen, weed the soil, and tie up the tomatoes at least three times a season. Hill up the soil 12 days after planting the seedlings. The best temperature for the normal development of tomatoes is: in sunny weather - up to 25°C, in cloudy weather - from 18 to 22°C, at night - not lower than 15°C. Suitable air humidity is 65%. Dry air is important during pollination. Watering tomatoes in open ground Excessive watering of tomatoes is harmful. Water the tomatoes with water at room temperature. Water the tomato in the ground carefully, trying not to get it on the leaves and trunk of the plant. This causes burns. Water tomatoes in the evening, except on hot sunny days. Watering is carried out as the earthen clod dries out, trying to wet the entire depth of the layer with humus and fertilizer. Before hilling, during the flowering period of the first and second clusters, the plant must be watered. Formation of tomatoes Tomato planting is carried out during the growing season. Indeterminate plants form one stem, determinate plants form two stems. Stepchildren are removed at a length of 5 to 7 cm. To speed up the growth and ripening of tomatoes, remove the tops of the shoots that bear fruit. They do this in mid-August. At the same time, remove all brushes with barren flowers. Fertilizer application In order not to harm the plants and your own tomato harvest, follow simple rules. Organic fertilizers Organic nitrogen fertilizers are used in limited quantities. Excessive application of manure, compost, vermicompost can lead to fattening of the tomato, with the stems becoming thick and the leaves wide. If organic fertilizers were applied to the predecessors of tomatoes (cabbage, cucumber), then these fertilizers are not applied to early tomatoes. For late varieties of tomatoes, organic fertilizers are applied only during autumn soil preparation. Mineral fertilizers Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers has a positive effect on the growth of tomatoes and leads to a long growing season. If mineral fertilizers were not applied before planting the seedlings, then the first fertilizing with nitrogen and phosphorus is done 2-3 weeks after planting. The second feeding with ammonium nitrate is done at the beginning of fetal formation. Mineral substance Importance in tomato growth Signs of a substance deficiency Nitrogen Accelerated ripening of fruits when using this element together with potassium and magnesium It can occur when transplanting seedlings into open ground is delayed over time. In this case, only the lower leaves fall off. The plant turns light green and is stunted in growth. Potassium Increased resistance to temperature changes and diseases. Responsible for the formation of large fruits and high yields A lack of potassium is accompanied by coloring of the leaf edges yellow-green and orange. Subsequently, woodiness of the stem occurs Magnesium Increases the possibility of fruit set. Influences their development and growth Leaves curl up and turn yellow Phosphorus Improving the root system. Has a positive effect on the taste of fruits, their quantity and speed of ripening Rain and cold interfere with phosphorus absorption. The plant reacts acutely to a lack of phosphorus during the growing season and after transplantation. During this, the leaves of the plant darken, become purple in color, and subsequently curl up. The tomatoes turn purple Fertilizer overdose Excess nitrogen leads to reduced plant immunity, and the period of fruit ripening increases. Excess chlorine is harmful. To avoid this, fertilizers should be applied in the form of potassium sulfate. It is impossible to refuse potassium fertilizers; tomatoes can develop chlorosis. In general, with an excess of nitrogen and phosphorus, the amount of potassium may decrease, which entails a lack of magnesium and calcium in tomatoes. Harvesting and storage With the beginning of September, the moment comes when tomatoes are removed from the open ground. During this period, a large number of fruits stop ripening. Due to uneven ripening, tomatoes are harvested daily. Harvesting brown tomatoes allows the bush to devote all its energy to ripening green tomatoes. Browns will be able to get home in the warmth and darkness. The fruits are collected without stalks. Store in a dark place at room temperature. In the refrigerator the ripening process slows down. Photo of tomatoes in open ground Main diseases of tomatoes in open ground Late blight. One of the most common diseases of tomatoes. The causative agent is the late blight fungus. For the development of late blight in tomatoes in open ground, the most favorable conditions are available. It develops under high humidity of 75%, moderately warm weather from 15 to 20°C, fluctuations in night and day temperatures and heavy dew. All this is observed by mid-summer. Fruits are mainly affected and rot. The pathogen settles on the soil, on potatoes, and on plant debris. For prevention, it is possible to use biological and chemical drugs. Alternaria blight. The leaves and fruits become covered with black spots, then turn completely black. Develops at high temperatures and air humidity. Changes in weather accelerate the development of the disease. Metaxil is also used in open ground. Septoria(white spotting). The lower, older leaves become diseased first, become covered with dark spots, curl and fall off. Develops at temperatures from +15 to +17°C, air humidity 76% and above. The fungus is preserved in plant remains. There are no chemically approved measures. Many tomato varieties have a gene for resistance to septoria. Growing tomatoes in open ground is a painstaking task, but not difficult. The main thing is to follow simple rules and know the laws of nature. And then she will give you a generous harvest of this delicious fruit.

Gardeners who do not have the opportunity to build greenhouses on their plots are forced to plant tomatoes in open beds.

In warm climates, tomatoes grow well and bear fruit without the need for a protective shelter. In regions with colder climates, plants need temporary covering with film. Vegetable growers prefer the seedling method of planting tomatoes, which allows for a shorter growing season, making it possible to count on a quick harvest.

Planting tomatoes in an open garden has certain pros and cons. Plants growing in open ground are stronger and have increased immunity. Tomatoes feel uncomfortable in conditions of high humidity, but in open space a favorable atmosphere is created for them, eliminating the development of many dangerous diseases of nightshade crops.

Unfortunately, growing many valuable things requires knowledge: how to transplant tomato seedlings into a greenhouse, since in a garden without shelter the bushes will simply die. In an open garden bed, it is not possible to regulate humidity and soil temperature, which is why tomatoes grow more slowly. Crop yields in a greenhouse are much higher. Often the fruits do not have enough time to fully ripen, which forces summer residents to pick them while they are still green.

Proper selection of varieties is the key to success

To achieve success in growing tomatoes in garden beds, you should give preference to proven, specially bred varieties that are resistant to weather “surprises”: sudden frosts, rain, prolonged cloudiness, heat, drought.

In most cases, vegetable growers choose crops with early and mid-early ripening periods for planting in open beds.

The optimal plants will be low plants of the determinant type, which do not require pinching or formation. Also suitable are indeterminate varieties that demonstrate the formation of compact, non-branching, non-elongating bushes.

In order not to run into trouble later, it is advisable to carefully study the manufacturers' annotations published on bags of seeds. It will be a win-win to buy seed products, the packaging of which has a mark on its suitability for planting in open ground. This does not at all mean that the seeds should be sown directly in open beds, since in our latitudes summer residents prefer to first obtain strong, healthy seedlings suitable for subsequent planting in the garden.

Growing seedlings at home

To subsequently obtain excellent bushes, you will need to correctly sow the seeds in prepared containers with soil. In order for the transplanting of tomato seedlings in March to be successful when diving, you need to carefully remove the seedlings from the old container, trying not to damage their delicate roots. Plants from which a third of the root length has been previously pinched off are placed in new containers.

Experienced gardeners who recommend when to transplant tomato seedlings into pots insist that bushes that have 3 true leaves are suitable for such a procedure. Often the timing of this event is calculated according to the Lunar calendar. For such a procedure as transplanting tomato seedlings in March, favorable days are chosen in the waxing Moon phase.

Timing for planting in open ground

A vegetable grower should definitely find out when to plant tomatoes in open ground with seedlings in order to plan the timing of the procedure in advance. Planting of seedlings on a permanent bed is carried out in the period: mid-April - mid-May. The timing must be determined taking into account the climatic conditions of your area. When deciding when to plant tomatoes in a garden bed, it is worth considering that rapid rooting of plants and their growth are observed in air temperatures from + 15 ° C, when the soil warms up to + 10 ... + 12 ° C.

In order to prevent the death of tomatoes planted in the garden in mid-April due to a possible return of frost, it will be necessary to provide the plants with temporary shelter in the form of a transparent film, which will be removed in the first ten days of June after warm weather sets in.

Summer residents often wonder when to transplant tomato seedlings according to the lunar calendar into the garden? Such worries are quite justified, since plants planted during the waxing Moon are considered stronger. The same can be said for pre-produced ones. A vegetable grower who knows when to plant tomatoes according to the lunar calendar will certainly receive beautiful bushes suitable for growing in garden beds.

In the old days, transplanting tomato seedlings to a permanent place in the garden was carried out with a focus on the flowering of mountain ash. During this period, cold, stormy weather gives way to warm, sunny weather. When looking at the folk calendar for transplanting tomato seedlings into a garden bed, it is worth noting that at this time the likelihood of frost returning is minimized.

Preparing the soil in the garden bed

A gardener will not go wrong if he starts preparing the garden soil in the fall. The priority is to choose a sunny area. To prevent tomatoes from becoming infected with late blight, an annual change of planting site is practiced. It is not recommended to choose a site where potatoes were previously planted. The best predecessors of tomatoes are: carrots, corn, legumes, beets.

In the fall, it is practiced to add rotted manure to the soil (bucket/m2). If this was not possible, a week before planting the seedlings, you can add humus and wood ash to each hole. Also, during this period it is worth treating the land with copper and digging up the site.

Having decided when to transplant tomato seedlings into the garden bed, you need to prepare the holes for the plants in advance and water them with warm water. The depth of the holes is calculated based on the height of the bush. Also, the volume of each excavation should be sufficient to deepen the soil bag of the bush.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Having decided on the time when you can plant tomato seedlings in garden soil, you should start pre-preparing the seedlings. 14 days before the planned planting, you will need to take the seedlings to the balcony for hardening. A similar procedure is carried out at an average daily temperature of no lower than + 13 ° C. Initially, the plants are removed for a short time. Then the time they spend in the open air increases to a day.

Tomato planting technology

A vegetable grower who has decided when to plant in beds must definitely water the bushes an hour before planting. When planting, you need to carefully remove the plants from the containers one by one, trying not to disturb the earthen lump that has formed around the roots. The bush falls vertically into the hole. A small amount of compost is poured into the hole, followed by backfilling and tamping of the soil.

After the completed manipulations, the bushes are watered with water (1 - 2 l / plant), and then the pegs are installed. When planting low-growing varieties, stakes 0.5 m high are sufficient. Medium-sized plants require fixation to stakes from 0.8 m in height.

A summer resident who is interested in when to plant tomato and pepper seedlings in the beds should know that it is optimal to hold such an event in the evening. Gardeners living in regions with always cloudy weather should prefer daytime planting.

Schemes for planting tomato seedlings

When deciding how to properly transplant tomato seedlings into a garden bed, you should decide in advance on the layout of the seedlings.

The variety, height, and method of irrigating the plants play a big role here. The main criterion is to provide the bushes with sufficient lighting. If you are transplanting tomato seedlings into a greenhouse, you should also follow the recommended placement schemes for seedlings in the soil.

Square-slot design

This scheme will be preferable when planting tall plants, since it ensures the convenience of cultivating row spacing, makes it possible to maintain a loose soil condition, and facilitates the removal of weeds. When studying how to properly plant tomato seedlings, according to this scheme, you need to take into account that the seedlings are located in the corners of 70 x 70 cm squares. Planting is done in a “nest” of 2 bushes.

Tape-socket scheme

The advantage of this scheme is the possibility of planting a larger number of seedlings on the site, which allows young plants to better withstand bad weather. The vegetable grower will need to cut the soil into furrows for irrigation at intervals of 1.4 m. Tomatoes are planted on the sides of the trenches with an area of ​​0.3 sq. m allocated for one plant.

Band-row scheme

The use of a strip scheme involves digging furrows of 30 cm at intervals of 80 - 90 cm. Seedlings are planted at a distance of about 45 cm. The advantage of this scheme is the creation of conditions for the simplest watering.

Checkerboard landing pattern

Choosing such a scheme requires planting seedlings in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the dug trench. This will ensure that any plant from the second row is placed between two bushes from the first. The interval between trenches is about 1.5 m.

Caring for plants in open ground

After planting tomatoes in a permanent place of growth, it is not recommended to water them until the bushes take root. It takes 8-10 days for plants to adapt, after which the irrigation period is allowed to start. Watering the bushes should be done at the root, trying to avoid wetting the leaves.

The second half of the day is considered the most successful time for watering. During this period, tomato roots absorb moisture better. Watering too early in the morning or too frequently during the growth and flowering periods can negatively affect the health of the crop. After fruit formation begins, it is worth increasing the frequency of irrigation, trying to maintain soil moisture at a certain level.

The wilting of individual bushes indicates that the crop does not receive enough light from the sun. There is no need to water plants with signs of wilting more frequently; it is better to try to free up space around them to improve illumination.

After irrigation, it is necessary to loosen the soil surrounding the bushes and uproot the weeds. The soil is loosened to a depth of about 8 - 12 cm to ensure the saturation of the root system with oxygen and warming of the internal soil layers.
Over time, it is worth reducing the loosening depth to 4 - 5 cm. This procedure must be carried out with the utmost care to avoid damage to the roots.

The vegetable grower will need to hill up the plants in a timely manner: at least 2 - 3 times during the season. Such measures ensure the saturation of the soil with oxygen, stimulate the development of roots, and improve the nutrition of tomatoes. The grooves in the ground formed by hilling help retain water in the soil.

Tomatoes planted in garden beds require periodic feeding. During the season, about 4 stages of fertilizing the crop are carried out. The first procedure is carried out 3 weeks from the moment of disembarkation. The next one is done when the second flower cluster begins to bloom. The third - when the third cluster blooms. The last feeding should be done at intervals of 3 weeks after the third.

A gardener who plans to plant tomatoes in open beds must know that in order to obtain an abundant, high-quality harvest, he will have to work hard. However, the result is worth it. There is no need to be afraid of difficulties. A competent approach will definitely lead to success. The planted plants will delight you with a variety of excellent fruits - tasty, juicy and very healthy.